Downtown Kampala

I grew up in Mulago and lived in several outskirts of Kampala, where my childhood was defined by a deep sense of sharing and community.

Some families often relied on food grown in their neighbours’ backyards, and people looked out for one another. This strong communal spirit shaped life in Kampala’s suburbs for many years.

Survival was a shared effort, and despite limited resources, residents supported each other in navigating daily life together. Today that narrative seems like a far-off recollection. A small faction of Ugandans, closely associated with power for four decades, has monopolized the most profitable sectors of the economy.

They control business contracts, lucrative government tenders, and well-paying positions, forcing the majority to struggle for survival in the capital city of their own nation. Wealth and opportunities have become increasingly concentrated, resulting in a significant disparity in the living conditions within the city.

Over the past four decades, Kampala’s landscape of wealth has expanded beyond traditionally wealthy, ruling-class areas such as Kololo and Muyenga to newer hubs like Kisasi, Kyanja, Bukoto, Ntinda, Kira, and Najjera, where upscale homes, private schools, and luxury vehicles signal growing prosperity.

In contrast, a visit to neighbourhoods such as Kalerwe, Bwaise, Kamwokya downtown, and Katwe exposes a vastly different situation. In these regions, the streets buzz with activity, yet life is an ongoing struggle.

Market vendors, boda boda riders, jua kali artisans, and informal traders form the backbone of Kampala’s survival economy; however, their earnings are barely enough to cover the expenses of rent, food, school fees, and transportation. The cost of living in Kampala has significantly increased over the years.

In many central and middle-class neighbourhoods, house rents have more than doubled in the past decade. Prices for food, especially essential items such as maize flour, beans, and cooking oil, are consistently on the rise.

Transport fares experienced a sharp increase during the Covid-19 pandemic, and unlike the temporary difficulties brought about by lockdowns, these fares have not reverted to pre-pandemic levels. For those who commute daily, this situation is not merely an inconvenience; it represents a substantial financial burden.

Education has also become a financial burden. School fees in private institutions, often seen as a necessity for children to access quality education, have skyrocketed. Public schools, while more affordable, struggle with inadequate infrastructure, teacher shortages, and limited learning materials, forcing parents to seek expensive alternatives.

Health services, similarly, remain a challenge, as public facilities are overstretched and private options remain increasingly beyond reach. The informal sector plays a crucial role in the lives of the majority in Kampala.

Boda boda riders navigate through traffic to earn a few thousand shillings daily. Market vendors offer vegetables, fish, and second-hand items at prices determined not by profit margins but by the necessity of survival.

Jua kali artisans, mechanics, and small-scale traders function without the safety of security, loans, or insurance. Although their work is unstable, it supports a substantial segment of the city’s population.

This inequality highlights a city divided by opportunity. While wealthy residents enjoy gated communities, private schools, and modern amenities, the majority encounter difficulties such as overcrowded housing, limited access to essential services, and rising living costs.

The city’s infrastructure is heavily burdened by population growth, traffic congestion worsens daily, and public transportation remains inconsistent. Roads are filled with vehicles, informal vendors invade sidewalks, and sanitation problems persist in densely populated areas.

Government policies have done little to bridge this divide. Urban planning often prioritises wealthier districts, leaving poorer communities underserved. Affordable housing remains scarce, and the informal sector which employs thousands receives minimal support or regulation.

The national narrative, focused on economic growth and investment, often overlooks the everyday challenges of those trying to survive in the city. In the absence of intentional policies aimed at tackling inequality, enhancing infrastructure, and aiding the informal sector, Kampala faces the risk of becoming uninhabitable for a significant portion of its population.

Affordable housing, accessible education, dependable transportation, and essential services should be prioritized rather than treated as luxuries. The resilience of the community alone cannot compensate for systemic neglect and escalating costs.

The city’s future hinges on the ability to reconcile these extremes and to ensure that prosperity does not remain the exclusive domain of a select few, while the majority struggle to navigate an increasingly unmanageable urban landscape.

The writer is a member of People’s Reform Uganda

One reply on “A city divided between wealth and survival, Kampala is becoming unliveable”

  1. Kazibwe, according to Confucius, the Father of Moral Order; “In a country well governed, poverty is something to be ashamed of. In a country badly governed, wealth is something to be ashamed of.

    Uganda is now a segregated country, where the politicians have inhumanely disenfranchised and segregate the people they lead.

    E.g., 40 years and counting: by deliberate underfunding/Budgeting, made sure they neglected and ran down all the very Public Schools and/or Hospitals, where they received the best education and Health services respectively in the East and Central Africa.

    By doing so and through corrupt (hook/crook) methods, such as inside dealing; built and equipped their own schools and hospitals and started to compete with their employer, the government, which they serve. That is where the moral bankruptcy and segregation began.

    Whoever therefore, want good education or health for their children/family, are are compelled to go their schools-University/Health Centres/Hospital and pay through the nose.

    It is also the school’s background where the Jobs segregation also began.

    E.g., without an apparent CONFLICT OF INTEREST and INSIDE DEALING, how can the Minister of State for Higher Education, Dr. Chrysostom Muyingo, who owns a Chain of “Seeta High Schools” (Mukono and Luweero) and a University; present favourable Policy for a Universal well funded and equipped Public School like the famous: Sir Samuel Baker (Gulu), Kitgum High (Kitgum), Lango College (Lira), Ombachi SSS (Arua) Mwiri SSS (Busoga), Kigezi High (Kabale), Moroto High (Moroto), Nyakasura School (Fort Portal), etc., etc. Schools?

    Impossible! NYET.

    In other words, the Dr. Muyingo of this country are not ashamed of the widespread semi-illiteracy and sic poverty generated from the bastardized public schools. Although he never misses especially the Sunday Mass and sits in the from pew, the guy and other Civil Servant, owners of high-end schools; adjust their ties, straightened their jackets and holds their noses, whenever compelled to or never to visit the Sir Samuel Baker SSS of this country.

    In the 60s up to 1985, the Sir Samuel Baker SSS of this country, used to on average, send 7 (seven) High School (A-Level) graduates to Makerere University Medical School. But today, it is a disaster of a school, with less than 200 students per term/year, AND the poverty that goes with them.

    In other words, who should be ashamed? The people of Gulu/Acholi or all the Ministers of Education and/or our 86-years-old PROBLEM OF AFRICA, president Tibuhaburwa MUSEVENI?

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