When the greatest king of Bunyoro died in 1923, his remains were interred at Mparo royal tombs, now a captivating venture into the culture and traditions of previous kings of Bunyoro, a kingdom believed to have birthed the Bantu tribes in Uganda. It is at Mparo where I was given an education into why Bunyoro kings though dead, are alive.
Mparo sits on an expansive land along Hoima-Masindi road that used to host the ancient palace of Kabalega. It remains as peaceful, beautiful, and serene as ever. Kabalega’s dome-shaped tomb was constructed with grass and reeds, boasting a fairly difficult design for its times; its decoration is a tale of a culture well-preserved.
A step inside reveals some of Kabalega’s regalia; after all, he was a man known for his immense strength and firm rule in the late 1880s. His spears, drums, baskets, stools and wooden troughs, among others, have been well preserved at Mparo. It is not just Kabalega’s regalia in the tombs; other fallen kings are well represented too.
The actual final resting place inside the traditional mausoleum is shielded with bark cloth. The thing about the tombs is that each one allows for a different experience. Kabalega’s son Sir Tito Winyi IV’s tomb, for example, has a calming effect to it. Winyi succeeded Kabalega in 1924 and reigned until 1967. Towering trees provide tranquility and fresh, clean air. Important to note is that these trees, like the kingdom, are as old as time and have stood the test of time.
The Mparo royal tombs have found a way to bask in their rich history and famous tenants, and yet remain modest. The art and artifacts, however, make Mparo worth the drive. Well maintained and authentic, these tombs capture the feel of true African royalty. A foot into the dimly-lit grass-thatched tombs is nothing short of magical. The history oozes through the atmosphere and here, nothing but culture matters.
Besides the trees that stand guard outside, the tombs are surrounded by even more royalty as showcased by a gently fenced-off graveyard where other members of the royal family were buried. There is also a monument on the grounds to mark where Kabalega met anti-slavery crusader Emin Pasha in 1871.
SOMETHING ABOUT NUMBER NINE
The consistency with which the number nine is subtly featured in Bunyoro issues makes one wonder; well, the Banyoro consider this number as one of luck. At the kingdom’s royal regalia chamber at Karuziika, Nafutal Balyemera, a caretaker, explained that almost everything at the palace is in numbers of nine. Some rituals are performed nine times or at times that correspond with nine. The Banyoro associate number nine with luck, prosperity, and positivity.
“It is against this background that the king sounded the drum at exactly 3pm, since it is the ninth hour of the day. In other words, the monarch was bidding luck to his kingdom,” Balyemera explains.
And indeed, on exploring Kabalega’s tomb further, I noticed nine traditional hoes holding the cowhide in place. Upon a raised platform in the room sits a legendary nine-legged royal stool covered with bark cloth and leopard skin. It is estimated to have been used for at least two centuries now.
Forget the counts of nine for a minute and let us talk about the sin-free atmosphere that Mparo maintains. The caretakers were quick to let us know that adultery was not allowed on the grounds. In fact, before one sets foot on the royal grounds, one must confess, and then repent of any sins, “because the spirits will know what you did the previous night”.
Even in death, the Banyoro believe that a king remains married and when his wife is buried next to him, it is to cater to his every need. Should the king’s wife die before him, the kingdom must find the king another wife from the late wife’s people; after all, when a king marries, he marries his wife’s entire clan.
And just like that, a bond is kick-started between him and this clan. Should the said wife die, a wife will be chosen for him from the same lineage. And should the king die, the Banyoro believe he should not be left wifeless; not even in death. They get all his widows into one home, from where the dead king’s spirit regularly visits for his ‘conjugal rights’.
Bizarre as that may sound, it is the Banyoro’s culture and you should seek out Mparo to see how the dead kings of Bunyoro ‘stay alive’.
THE BUNYORO KINGS CORONATION
Bunyoro Kingdom is believed to be the oldest kingdom in Uganda. The kingdom covers five districts of Masindi, Buliisa, Hoima, Kibaale and Kiryandongo. Talking to Muhiga Abwooli, the History teacher, explains that there is the Moonlight Festival that is performed for nine days, every year.
Throughout the festival, the Omukama of Bunyoro sits on his throne for the celebratory nine days’ duration. During this period, he treats his guests to sumptuous dinners and his subjects drink tonto (banana brew) to their fill.
They also take a lot of milk and esabwe (cow ghee whipped with crude salt). It is a period of celebrations and performing different rituals. The Bunyoro Kingdom boasts 57 clans and each clan has a specific duty it does in the kingdom during the Moonlight Festival.
The royal trumpeters blow their trumpets throughout the nine days at the palace. Every hour that ticks by, the royal drummers thump and play the drums. These, and more rituals, are performed to keep the kingdom in high spirits and esteem; it is a time when their ancestral spirits also freely roam. There is a special spirit called Musaija Mukulu. So, the Moonlight Festival is one where the king’s subjects are expected to be on their best behavior.
In Bunyoro to date, the Moonlight Festival is the core of the kingdom. It is taken in high esteem and treated with a lot of respect. For the nine days’ duration of the festival, for example, men are not supposed to have sex with their wives. Conjugal duties are shelved until the festival ends.
People who drink alcohol, during this Moonlight Festival, are not supposed to touch a bottle of any brew. They are not supposed to drink alcohol. But if they are tempted to drink, they shouldn’t drink a lot of it. And as the festival winds up with the Empango (coronation) celebrations, at 3pm, all women are not supposed to move. They remain motionless, in another kingdom rule.
Once the Moonlight Festival and all its rituals end, the Empango celebrations start in earnest and this time, everyone is invited inside the palace. I guess that is what makes Uganda unique; we may be one people, but our cultures and traditions can differ as night does from day, and it is quite an excursion when one tribe allows you in to see their beliefs, as Banyoro did for me.
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