A post on Reddit from about 10 months ago asked a simple but loaded question: “What food do Ugandans like but you don’t?”
Among the responses, one delicacy stood out, mukene, Uganda’s infamous silver cyprinid. The replies were as colourful as they were unforgiving.
“Do people actually eat mukene by choice?” one commenter scoffed. “My mother-in-law says it’s just for the malnourished and chickens.” “Even my cats don’t like mukene!” another chimed in.
“It’s an abomination.”
With such harsh reviews, it came as a surprise even to The Observer to find mukene featured prominently on the menu at Azhar restaurant in Kisaasi. Even more surprising? People were actually ordering it enthusiastically, including women, who stereotypically avoid it due to its notoriously sharp, fishy smell.
But Azhar is no ordinary kafunda. It’s a clean, mid-tier dining spot with a hint of Islamic heritage, thanks in part to its Hajjati chefs who dish out some of the city’s most memorable matooke and fragrant pilau.
On the menu, mukene lunch is priced at a mere Shs 5,000. Nutritionally, mukene is a powerhouse rich in omega-3, protein, calcium and vitamins, credited with boosting brain function, supporting heart health, and lowering the risk of diseases like diabetes and high blood pressure.
But convincing Ugandans to embrace its health benefits is such a tough ask. Azhar’s take on mukene is bold and intriguing. It arrives stewed in a hearty, oily sauce alongside tender cubes of eggplant.
This pairing of course softens both the look and texture of the dish, but does very little to swat the dog-food visual reputation. But more importantly, the aroma is relatively subdued here.
The eggplant absorbs much of the pungency, letting the umami of the fish stand out. That said, the sauce could use some restraint. Less soup, would elevate the dish even further.
As expected, it pairs excellently with Azhar’s perfectly steamed matooke, each golden mound soaking up the rich, fishy sauce like a sponge.
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