It has social benefits such as improving appearance and career prospects. However, it can cause permanent damage to the skin and promote European beauty standards. This implies that there may be more negative than positive effects.
Historically, African societies used skin-bleaching because it was linked to ideas of social status, beauty standards and privilege. These ideas were influenced by the power dynamics of European imperialism. In this system, white individuals were considered superior, causing unequal distribution of resources, which was justified by the implementation of misconceptions of skin colour.
The colonisers spread the belief that being white was pure and righteous through Christianity, thereby associating whiteness with goodness and blackness with impurity and sin. Colonialists enforced their lifestyle on Africans through a ‘civilising mission,’ introducing products like soap, emphasising Christian values of cleanliness.
Advertisements normalised the perception of black skin as dirty. An example of this is a 1930 French advertisement that promoted soap as a way to make black skin appear white and clean. Hence the origins of skin-whitening beliefs date to decades back.
Historically, skin-lightening was practised by European women and gained popularity when Queen Elizabeth I lightened her skin for a porcelain look. This trend influenced European women and extended to Africa through colonisation. African women, employed as domestic workers, were introduced to European self-care practices. The irony of white individuals bleaching to become lighter adds complexity to the practice for both people of colour and white individuals.
Apartheid, an example of white supremacy in South Africa, created laws dividing white individuals and people of colour and limiting opportunities and privileges. Regulations included restricted access to ‘white areas,’ prohibitions on interracial marriages and forced relocations. This contributed to a hierarchy within people of colour known as ‘Colorism,’ where lighter-skinned individuals received more privileges. This system motivated some black South Africans to skin bleach.
Skin bleaching is justified by social advantages, with studies showing preferential treatment for lighter-skinned individuals in education and professions. Research from 2006 and 2018 demonstrates favourable evaluations and better outcomes for light-skinned black individuals in job-related judgments, education, income and employment. This highlights the economic benefits of skin-lightening.
Skin-bleaching is also able to treat rashes, acne scars, and some skin illnesses. A study revealed that over 60 per cent of students in South Africa used bleaching methods to enhance attractiveness by removing skin blemishes, which was found to be the most prevalent motive. Another study found that four out of nine skin bleachers specifically lightened their skin to eliminate acne, showing the practice’s role in alleviating low self-esteem.
In contrast, skin-bleaching has significant physical implications due to toxic chemicals such as hydroquinone, corticosteroids and mercurials. Excessive use of hydroquinone leads to severe skin damage, diseases and hyperpigmentation.
Corticosteroids, when absorbed into the bloodstream, can cause infections, infertility, and cataracts. Mercurials, the oldest skin lighteners, cause mercury-poisoning with potentially fatal consequences, including kidney and liver damage and neurological problems. Despite these health risks, skin bleaching remains prevalent, making it one of the most common and dangerous forms of body modification globally.
The widespread use of harmful chemicals produces public health risks. Mercurials, banned by the United States Food and Drug Administration and the European Union, continue to be a concern in Africa. Hydroquinone, initially outlawed in South Africa in 1980, is still widely used despite its prohibitions.
It is critical to understand that the practice of skin-bleaching is driven by societal pressures and the maintenance of racist beauty standards.
In order to effectively solve this problem, African communities need to consciously promote self-acceptance, celebrate cultural diversity and embrace a positive body image. Implementing regulatory measures, restricting dangerous cosmetics and raising public health awareness about skin-bleaching risks, are also crucial steps towards finding solutions.
The author is a Grade 12 high school student in Cape Town, South Africa.
