When the announcement was made, there was a loud scoff from Ugandans that could probably be heard all the way at State House Entebbe, because the relationship between Ugandans and secondhand things is an old and intimate one. And it is not always about the prices, as The Observer discovered in our foray into downtown Kampala’s Owino (St Balikudembe) market, Ham Shopping Plaza, Nabugabo road and other arcades downtown.
Ugandans’ love for secondhand clothes stems from an ingrained belief that secondhand is stronger and better quality, while others said it is the only way they can afford international designer brands at a song. However, in villages in far-flung districts where residents depend on one meal a day, the apparel many people can afford is sold in secondhand markets and even then, the prices are considered exorbitant.
If President Museveni ventured into downtown Kampala and the suburbs, he would be shocked to see how much is now sold secondhand; from furniture to crockery and cutlery, linens, gym equipment, designer handbags, clothes, shoes, wedding gowns; name it, it now comes in the secondhand market and Ugandans queue to buy. That is before we mention cars…
On a bustling Wednesday morning, amidst the cacophony of motorcycles, car engines and clamour of hawkers and Karimojong street children, The Observer embarked on a journey to discover the vibrant dynamics of downtown Kampala’s secondhand market. The streets were alive with energy, and as I meandered through the busy crowds, I found myself amidst a treasure trove of stories waiting to be told.
My interest in Ugandans’ unique (well, not so unique, since even developed countries have thrift shops and flea markets) love for secondhand clothes had been piqued by a hot debate that had swept our newsroom. Is the average Ugandan’s mindset truly locked on using strictly used things?
So much is this belief in the longevity and superior quality of secondhand merchandise that now traders pass off brand new clothes and shoes as ‘secondhand’ because that is the only way they can get their clients to buy!
“I buy and resell used shoes and clothes from downtown, but on a particular morning I turned up early in the morning as my regular wholesaler was still opening his bales,” one trader, who requested anonymity, told The Observer. “I was shocked to find him yanking price tags off brand-new apparel with labels such as H&M, Victoria’s Secret, Gap, Levi’s – stuff that had reportedly been shipped in from huge season-end sales in Europe – and he was rumpling them up to look used!”
When she asked him why he had to do that, “He told me he failed to convince majority of his customers to buy something that is not used, because they believe only secondhand things are good and durable”.
That day, she walked away with some of the poshest clothes that had never been worn by anyone else, but at secondhand prices. She declined to say how she repriced them for her own customers, however. Because most of the affordable, new clothes on the Ugandan market come from China and Turkey, lovers of UK and USA brands due to TV and social media influence, can only afford them if they turn up on the secondhand market.
For others, the secondhand market is their only available option, simply because that is what their budget can afford, and the president’s recent directive sounded very much like an insult, and Kampala City Traders Association (KACITA) has already protested the ban. Secondhand clothes are even more popular upcountry, where new apparel is not just scarce, but more people there live on less than a dollar a day.
Musa Sebuuma, a seasoned vendor at Kalungi Commercial Plaza, offered insight into the allure of these clothes. He said, “Secondhand clothes hold a distinctive place in society. They are affordable, [unique] and remarkably durable. Their prices are not fixed, allowing buyers to find unique burgains.”
Sebuuma, who specializes in men’s garments, shared the hidden intricacies of these items on the market. He confirmed that indeed among the secondhand treasures are untouched, pristine garments – remnants or unsold seasonal stock from European/North American countries.
For example, when a popular retail store in the UK stocks clothes and shoes for the summer, as autumn approaches, the summer stock is discounted by up to 90 percent to clear stalls. When it is time to stock for autumn, any unsold stock from the summer clearance sale is disposed of at throwaway prices.
These new items arrive on Kampala’s secondhand market in bales similar to those of used items, because the prices are not much different.
Smart traders then buy from Nabugabo and beyond and resell to unsuspecting customers for a huge profit. What is not grabbed by the smart retailers then have their price tags quicky removed, seamlessly transforming them into ‘secondhand’ offerings for customers that prefer to buy strictly used clothes.
TOP DESIGNERS
Popular designer brands are visible, inviting shoppers to experience luxury at a fraction of the cost. For example, original Colorado, USA made Crocs in Uganda are almost exclusive to the secondhand market, where they can cost between Shs 30,000 and Shs 80,000 – so, secondhand is not necessarily cheap; it can also be a choice.
Walking through the labyrinth of paths in Owino and Kikuubo, I encountered vendors Paul Buyondo and Swaibu Seguya, who willingly discussed their trade. They said customers are drawn to secondhand items not only due to their affordability and longevity, but also because of the distinct character that comes with owning a piece of clothing with a history.
However, the two men’s tale extended Kampala’s so-called high society, who may not know what their ‘clothes plug’ actually means when s/he says: “I import my stuff from USA and UK”.
Secondhand clothes have meandered into the very heart of Kampala’s market; the vendors said high-end shops often frequented by the elite source some of their merchandise from people like Seguya and Buyondo, bringing designer pieces to customers that cannot be caught shopping in secondhand markets, at ridiculously marked-up prices.
Some upmarket shops and boutiques also have buyers that scout the local market for good deals. I was shocked to see a plethora of inexpensive, beautiful household items, including cups, tableware and seemingly new kitchen towels; good-as-new spects frames and their cases; phone covers for all tribes of gadgets; small-size gym equipment like dumbbells and rollers, as well as sportswear; there was even used underwear!
As I concluded my interview and stroll through downtown Kampala, I decided to buy myself a few inexpensive, secondhand shirts to breathe life into my wardrobe as I headed back home. Government will need good luck wishes on that planned ban, considering the politics of ‘voters and what they want’ that seem to go into every national decision and policy, lately.
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